Monday, March 31, 2008

A Sampler Of Faux Finish Techniques

While Grandma's quilts showed off a sample of her pretty bits of fabric and her skill with many different fancy needle stitches - imagine what she could have done with a pot of glaze and a sponge. That's right. As artistic and skilled as Grandma was she probably would be right at home with faux finish paints, too.

There are so many options available to today's homeowner when it comes to choosing alternatives to traditional flat paint. There's absolutely no reason to hang onto that boring tried-and-true white (or taupe, taupe, taupe) painted in every room throughout your home.

Explore the alternatives. Look in magazines for rooms that appeal to you. Architectural Digest, Southern Accents, Veranda and others all regularly feature homes that have faux finishes on everything from walls to furniture. Designers love to change the feel of a space with color and textures, painted faux finishes are an easy first step in that direction. You can do the same thing, too.

Faux finishes can be applied to almost any surface. From walls, ceilings, cabinetry in the kitchen and bath, floors, to all types of solid furniture as well. Styles of finishes can be extremely simple and subtle, to way, way over-the-top fantasy finishes, depending on your personal taste and pocketbook.

For your walls, here's something to think about -- a faux wall finish can provide a striking and seamless alternative to wallpaper. Seamless. No peeling or splitting. Just a beautiful hand-painted unique finish individually crafted for you alone.

A skilled faux finish artist can create a look just for you that the wallpaper manufacturers would love to copy and mass-market. Some of the more popular looks for walls include:

Color washes - ragged, bushed, sponged single glazes over solid paint, the work-horse of faux finishes
Multiple glazes - layered over solid paint, provides great depth
Faux leather looks - terrific in a study
Faux suede - stipple glaze over solid paint
Stencil over-all patterns - antique damask or simple borders
Venetian plasters - lustrous beautiful plasters
Tuscan old-world plasters - troweled on plaster, chipped, cracked and aged to perfection
Faux stone effects - limestone, fieldstone, slate, cut and fitted patterns
Faux brick looks
Faux wood - faux bois, antiqued, distressed, burled, bamboo
Faux metal - brilliant metallic glazes, antique iron, verdigris
Tissue paper - textured paper, paint and glaze
Stripes - glazed or just painted, always classy

On columns, trim, doors, crown molding, fireplaces and art niches there are a number of cool faux finishes that can enhance the architecture of any room. Classic looks feature:

Marble - from travertine to Rojo Viejo, the choices are wide open
Granite - mimic your countertops
Fantasy stones, such as lapis and malachite
Gilding - any metal leafing, gold, silver, copper
Strie - fine dragging of colored glaze over a solid paint

Antique or distressed faux finishes are wonderful choices on cabinetry and furniture. Adding a few worn edges and some crackled paint to those dated, tired kitchen cabinets can give them a fresh new “old” look. Think Provence.

It's easy to expand your options. Change your mind about what's acceptable for your sweet home space. Play a little with something fresh and new. Remember, changing the dynamics of your home is easy with the assistance of a skilled and experienced faux finish artist.

Always go to a pro who has a track record and samples and customers who love to tell you about the artist's work that was created just for them. Then let him create a special room just for you.

He can guide you to faux finishes and colors that will be appropriate to your style, your furnishings, and your pocketbook. Consult with a trained professional artist and get the best look for your home today.

Oh. And keep in mind, if you are tired of that old chest-of-drawers and thinking about tossing it out, maybe all it needs a good old-fashioned antiquing. A dab of glaze here, another dab there. Just right.

Grandma would approve, no doubt.

About Author:
Jay Dorman is the owner of Greystone Artisans, a decorative painting and faux finishing company. This Houston-based company has been in business for eight years and has worked in many of the finest homes locally and in other cities in Texas. This team of talented artists is available for travel to locations outside of Texas, too! Consultations are available upon request and are at no cost. Hundreds of samples including cabinetry finishes and wall finishes of all types can be seen at our showroom. The showroom, which houses our workroom as well, is open by appointment. Please visit us on the web at:
http://www.greystoneartisans.com

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Softening Your Walls with Color Wash

If you like the soft look of watercolors, why not try using a color wash on your walls? In addition to a softer color, color washing can accentuate the texture of your plaster or stucco walls. And it's so simple that even I, a faux-finish-impaired decorator, can do it.

There are two techniques for color wash application: sponge or brush. Each requires a slightly different glaze formula.

Sponge Technique:

Color Wash Glaze: Mix together 1 part latex paint and 6 parts water in a bucket.

1. Mask off (using painter's tape) parts of the room which will not receive the wash. Its best to cover the floor with plastic drop cloths (especially if you are as messy as I am).

2. Prime the wall with a low luster latex paint and allow it to dry completely before the next step.

3. Dip the sponge into the color wash glaze and squeeze lightly.

4. Beginning in a lower corner, apply the glaze to the wall in short, overlapping strokes. Change the direction of the strokes frequently. Work on a small portion of the wall at a time (3 foot by 3 foot is a good size).

5. Repeat moving upward until the entire wall is covered.

6. Allow to dry completely.

Brush Technique:

Brush Color Wash Glaze: 1 part flat latex paint, 1 part latex paint conditioner (available at your local home improvement center), and 2 parts water. Mix in a bucket.

1. Mask off (using painter's tape) parts of the room which will not receive the wash. Its best to cover the floor with plastic drop cloths.

2. Prime the wall with low luster latex enamel paint and allow it to dry completely before the next step.

3. Allow the paint to dry.

4. Dip a paintbrush in the glaze and remove the excess against the side of the bucket.

5. Apply the paint in a crises-cross pattern.


6. Brush over the surface repeatedly to soften the look of the paint.

7. Wipe excess glaze away, if necessary. (Better get the industrial-sized package of paper towels!)
There you have it! A soft paint look perfect for your newly decorated roomï. And since you have the technique down to a science, why not come and do my family room? Powder room? Closet?

About Author:
Hanit - For More Free Resources visit
www.thedesignbuild.com
Article Source:
http://www.articlerich.com

Featured Video:

Faux Like a Pro Faux finish Color Wash



Learn how to color wash you walls in a few easy steps. Let Sandra Kiss London of Faux Like a Pro show you how to apply this alternative paint finish to make your walls come alive. Go to www.Fauxlikeapro.com for more ideas.


WallDreams Paint Ideas!
Colorwashing is such an elegant finish when applied properly, the colors blending so softly into each other lend such nice texture and character background to living rooms, family rooms, foyers or bedrooms. Colorwashing can create sophisticated spaces, give an "old world" feel, or add country charm.

Keep in mind:
  • Similar tones do work best, as it is the softness of the effect that is the goal.
  • Remember to have a good color basecoat underneath, as it is the third color (or one of) the final colors showing with the semi-transparent glazes.
  • A variety of tools can be used to create the effect - soft brushes, cheesecloth, plastic bags, old socks or sponges.
  • Combine colorwashing with other effects for even more character. Try stripes, stenciling, stamps, embedded negative shapes.
  • It is easier to work with a glaze on this technique, as a wet edge makes for quality results.

One of the VERY best paint secrets that I can pass along to you is a cleaning up tip. Mix 1/2 cup of fabric softener to one gallon of cold water to clean paint brushes, rollers, etc. You will be amazed at how easy and fast clean up becomes. Don't rinse your brushes out after swirling your paint brush, as it does help condition the hairs of the brush.

Til next time,

Donna of WallDreams.com

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Faux Painting Finishes

Faux and Decorative Painting Sponge painting

Sponge painting is great because it is easy, fast, requires little paint and materials, and did I mention it was easy? It can be used on walls, furniture, and accessories, and can give instant facelift to dull objects.

Don't let anyone convince you that you have to go buy an expensive sea sponge to do this. I've used plastic grocery bags, cloth diapers, even old clothing…(Ok, now it's called ragging, same technique, more subtle look.) But you can use a plain old kitchen sponge, and here's the secret….tear away all the hard edges of the sponge, even tear chunks from the center to give it an irregular appearance.

Now choose your paint, and sponge! Remember to sponge sparingly at first, you can always add more later. Also, dab the paint off on your plate first, you only need a little paint on the sponge, or it will be too gloppy. Practice first on a paper bag, and remember to change the direction of your hand occasionally, the idea is not to get a pattern going.

Try combining sponge painting with stenciling or decorative painting, tape off a border and use it just there, you can even sponge paint over glassware with the new glass paints available at your craft store.

Marbelizing

There is a very simple technique to marbleizing that is popular in the home decorating world today, and you won't believe how easy it is until you try it. Simply choose two to four colors of paint within the same color scheme, one light, one medium, one dark.

Using a regular paintbrush, dip the brush into all the colors. Now simply pounce the paintbrush over the surface to get a mottled effect. It might help to keep a picture of a piece of marble nearby to refer to. Use the different colors to add shading, or tone down an area you think is too bright. When finished with the surface, take a small artists liner brush, dip it into either the lightest or darkest color you used, (thin with a little water, if necessary) and paint veins by dragging the brush over the surface, wiggling it as you go. Don't go overboard on the veining. Remember also to bring the veins over the edges for a realistic finish. I think sealing it with a gloss clearcoat or polyurethane gives the most authentic look of polished marble.

Crackling

Crackling is very popular as aged finishes have become so much a part of showcasing warmth and history in our homes. It can be done without purchasing expensive crackling kits. Crackled finishes are a simple chemical reaction. All you need are two colors of latex paint, one a base coat that will peek through, and one a top coat, that you will see the most of, and household glue. That's right, direct from your kid's art box. Sand and prime your piece if necessary, then paint with your base coat. Remember, this will be the color the will just peek through, so it's best if it contrasts with the top coat. Let dry. Now mix household glue with equal parts water, and brush onto your base coat. This can be done easiest with a foam brush. Allow the glue to dry until just tacky, about 30 minutes.

Now for the reaction part. Brush on your top coat directly over the glue coat. Don't brush over any one area more than once, you will ruin the crackle effect in that area. You should start seeing the crackling take place within a minute or so. The size of the crackles has a lot to do with your technique in applying the top coat, so experiment a little first. Long, smooth strokes tend to produce larger more dramatic cracks than short strokes, and if you really want a subtle effect, try sponging or ragging on the final coat. Allow to dry overnight. If you wish to further antique your work, simply dab or brush it with some wood stain, then wipe off. Repeat until you get the look desired. You can seal with polyurethane or clearcoat, or coat it with common furniture wax.

About Author:
Kathleen Wilson is the Editor of a free ezine called The Budget Decorator, dedicated to the "budget impaired" home decorator. Visit her at
http://www.thebudgetdecorator.com/ for more free projects and ideas, and for info on her workshop.
Article Source:
http://www.articlestree.com/

Featured Video:
Sponge Painting


http://www.fauxfun.com/
Sponge painting demonstration given on the Sheryl Bordon Show showing how paint a geometric sponge wall finish


WallDreams brings you information you can use - when doing it yourself is the only way to go!

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Pattern Paint Rollers For An Amazing Finish

You love the way wallpaper looks, but you know you can't handle those huge strips of paste covered paper. Besides, if you decide you don't want to keep the wallpaper once you put it up, it is so time consuming and messy to remove. So, do you just settle for painting the walls a solid color? Before you decide to give up on your dream for beautifully patterned walls, you may want to take a look at pattern paint rollers.

There are quite a few different patterned paint rollers available, with patterns ranging from simple geometric designs to ivy vines. Some of them are better suited to creating borders, while others are perfect for painting entire rooms. People also use these rollers to make interesting designs on large pieces of furniture, such as armoires or bed headboards.

The Rollerwall Design Painting and Decorating System allows you to create the look of wallpaper patterns with your desired paint color and the patterned roller. If the pattern doesn't look right, you can wipe it off before the paint dries. When you decide you are tired of that pattern, you can just paint over the walls with a fresh coat of paint and create a whole new effect with a different patterned roller and paint color.

If you've used stencils or standard patterned rollers before, you're probably thinking that there is no way the job is that easy. What about those globs of unevenly applied paint that make the pattern blurry? However, the Rollerwall products are designed to keep the paint from being too thick or thin. A traditional roller cover is rolled in the paint. Then the patterned roller is snapped in front of the paint filled roller. As you roll the wall, the paint filled roller applies paint to the patterned roller in an even, blotch free layer, which is transferred to the wall's surface.

Another thing you may be wondering is whether matching up the pattern is as hard as matching patterns along wallpaper seams. It actually is easier, because the wallpaper is so awkward to move into place when it is such a long, sticky strip. The Rollerwall roller is designed so that you can match the new strip of paint with the previous one by using a special guide on the roller. All you need to do is make sure that your first pass with the roller goes straight up and down so that the next strip can line up easily.

Do you dread using wallpaper to decorate a room? It looks great but can be such a pain to remove once it's up. You have another option - patterned painting rollers. These give you the design you want without the headache of paper and paint. Click on over to PaintSplashes.com for more interior painting ideas.

About Author: Niall Roche
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Niall_Roche

WallDreams brings you information you can use - when doing it yourself is the only way to go!

Monday, March 24, 2008

Paint Your Home With Color!

Tired of those boring white walls? Looking to give your home some character? There’s no better way to give your home a face lift then to paint your home with color!

Painting is affordable and quite easy to do. And changing the color in a room changes the atmosphere. For years white or cream paint where common wall colors throughout the house. But finally people have realized how boring that is and have turned to color for their walls.

Choosing the right paint can be a bit overwhelming if you aren’t use to working with color. Choosing the right color for a room is not as difficult as you might think.

Your paint, furniture fabric, window coverings, rug, and accessory colors will play a large role in what color you can choose. If you have your heart set on a certain color you can always change out some of the other items in your room.

One of the best clues you can have for choosing the right color is knowing what colors make you feel relaxed and happy. You’ll probably already find these colors in your home because they are the colors you’ll be drawn to.

Not sure what’s your best color? Look at the color of your pottery, your home accessories, your jewelry, and the clothing in your closet. You’ll quickly know what your color is!

Now that doesn’t mean that you have to choose that color but it does make you aware of what colors work best for you. Different colors elicit different feelings and moods. If your color isn’t appropriate for the living room it doesn’t matter. Chances are there is a room that it would look really good in. Don’t be afraid to mix colors. A yellow kitchen, a blue living room, and a red den will all look great. You do not need to use the same color throughout the house.

Feature walls always look great especially if the color you have chosen is too dark for an entire room. You can do one or two walls in your color and leave the other two white or cream. Don’t be afraid to experiment.

You should also make a trip to your local paint store. Pick up sample cards of colors you think you would like to use, or you can also pick up a color wheel. Grab as many samples as you like. That’s what they are there for. Then when you get home you can see how these colors look. Don’t forget to try them in different lighting and at night. Colors can look really different when sunlight hits them and when the lamp is their lighting. Make sure you like both affects.

Take your time choosing the color. Make sure after a week or so it’s still your favorite choice. It’s much easier to change your mind prior to painting the walls.

Here’s some color tips that will help you understand how color works. Complimentary colors are colors you will find directly across from each other on the color wheel. Harmonious colors are colors that are each side of the main color. Tint is color that is added to white and shades are colors that have had black added. Saturation is the amount of color. The more color the more vibrant the color.

Let’s say you are going to paint all four walls – two a dark blue and you want the complimentary color on the other two walls. You would take your color wheel, look straight across from your dark blue and have your complimentary color.

Let’s say you want one wall to be vibrant and bold then you would have a deeper saturation in the color. Perhaps you are going to paint the top half of a wall blue and you want to have a harmonious color for the bottom. If you looked on your color wheel you would see that purple is a harmonious color for blue.

How you use the color in your room is as important as what color you choose. Too much color or the wrong color can leave you feeling stressed and overly excited all the time. Too little color can be dreary and unmotivated.

Never be afraid to experiment. If you really hate the color you can easily change it with more paint. When it comes to painting nothing has to be permanent.
So isn’t it time to paint your home with color? Bring your home to life and give it a character all of its own!

About Author:
Deon Melchior is the Editor and Publisher of Article Click. For more
FREE articles for your ezine and websites visit ArticleClick.com. Article Click is a free content article directory. This means that as a publisher you may reprint the articles that are included in our site, as long as the article is unedited and the author box is included with it's live hyperlinks.

Featured Video:
How to Choose a Color Scheme & Paint: Interior Design & Painting Tips : Pt. 1 - Making a Color Diagram: Interior Design & Painting Tips



Part 1 - Learn how to make a diagram of the color scheme for your home. Get painting tips for walls & ceilings in this free home improvement video.



WallDreams Paint Ideas!

Rarely do I see a room done in a white paint on purpose that truly works. Many of our homes and apartments are quickly painted in a white or offwhite to give it a "clean" look, but for me a white wall is just waiting for the right color, it is a blank stretched canvas, unfinished or even begun. A basic white wall feels unwelcoming and cold. Outside of our door, in nature is every color imaginable - the color of sky, earth, water, stone; every growing thing; flowers, trees, animals. There are colors and combinations of colors that you love.


If you can put together an outfit that makes you look and feel great, you can pick a wall color!

For some help in understanding color better, here are some very helpful links.

http://www.writedesignonline.com/resources/design/rules/color.html

http://interiordec.about.com/cs/artic12/a/des_decordos.htm

http://www.interior-design-it-yourself.com/decorating-with-color.html

http://www.makedecor.com/

Now, get a bucket of paint and get started!

Sunday, March 23, 2008

How to Bid Painting Jobs - 6 Vital Things to Consider

Estimating house painting jobs is something that you develop over time. I can go into any house and go from room to room and tell you by eye just how much paint you will need to do the ceilings, walls and woodwork. I can also tell you just about how long it will take to paint each room basically.

I can even tell you just about how long it will take to paint each room in general. But estimating many times goes a lot deeper than just eyeballing a few simple rooms. So here are 6 points to help you when figuring your bids or estimates.

1.) Know Your Target Market

When getting prepared to do a painting estimate you first need to know your target market or markets. Are you going to be painting in the mid-class neighborhoods or are you aiming for the high-end expensive neighborhoods? Or are you going after commercial or industrial accounts?

Now you can you gauge how high you are going to set your bid rates. You can have have high-end rates for larger homes, or for commercial or industrial painting, and mid prices for the rest.

Personally, when it comes to painting for residential customers, I keep my rates the same. I do not care if it's high-end or middle class. If they cannot afford my painting services, I am out of there. Once you have painted at a higher price, it's hard to go lower unless of course, you are hard up.

If you are estimating painting jobs for big business you can and should aim competitively high without worrying about much competition as you would in residential painting. Plus larger commercial customers have deep pockets. Also to consider, if you are tackling those types of accounts you will need extra painters anyways so you definitely need to aim high in your bidding to cover their wages and benefits.

2.) Fool-Proof System

You need an accurate estimating method that works perfectly every time without fail. Whether inside or outside. You can stand and stare at a project all day and try to guesstimate exactly how long it will take you to paint something or you can use an accurate method for bidding paint jobs and walk away smiling and not wondering if you might bite the bullet on that one.

3.) Allowances

You need to allow for fuel, travel time and even giving Uncle Sam his cut. If your going to be driving long miles you definitely want to account for fuel and travel time, even overnight expenses if you get that radical in your painting business. Again, if you have employees you will need to account for their wages and benefits in your bids also.

4.) Hidden Expenses

You need to be aware of hidden expenses or projects that add extra time and extra materials to a job. Things like hard to cover colors, excessive prep time, high-work, down time due to outside sources that are common in new construction, etc.

5.) Cost of Materials

You need to know how much paint and materials you will be using. (Note: A good estimating system will automatically include all your paints and materials.)

6.) Flexible Methods

Your estimating system should have several ways of figuring your bids. Just like a set of golf clubs, some times you need a different driver to make it on to the next green.

Different jobs require different painting estimating techniques.

For example: painting ceilings, walls and woodwork estimating can change if you have excessive woodwork like walk-in closets with tons of shelving. Or rooms with high walls.

The same goes for exterior work in residential painting. Are the surfaces smooth and clean or is there stucco or shingles that require extra time and materials? When you have an accurate system in place you can build up an estimate to meet the type of project you are bidding on.

Many times on larger estimates, I will cross-check my painting bid from different angles by using two different estimating techniques just to make sure I have it all together and did not leave anything out of the big picture.

About Author:
Lee Cusano has owned and operated his own successful painting business for over 16 years now. Lee has also helped many others to start their own painting business with his Paint Like a Pro Estimating and Advertising CD-ROM. He also offers a free report titled "How To Gain a High Success Rate For Getting Painting Jobs". To get it visit http://www.painting-business.com

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com

WallDreams brings you information you can use - when running your painting business is the only way to go!

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Decorative And Faux Painting Is Fun But Don’t Start Until You Read This

I think decorative and faux painting techniques look great, are fun to do, and add a personal statement to a room. I’ve been adding my personal look to the walls in my homes ever since my husband and I purchased our first “fixer-upper.”

When I first starting using faux and decorative painting techniques on the walls in our home it was a financially motivated action. We didn’t have a lot of extra money. I couldn’t afford new furniture or flooring for a room but I could afford to buy some paint. But just painting the walls a solid color seemed boring to me so I started exploring faux and decorative painting. It didn’t take me long to get hooked. Why do I like faux and decorative painting on walls so much?

1) It’s an inexpensive way to change the look of an entire room. Paint is the most economical way to change the look of a room.

2) A painting technique on the walls minimizes and hides cosmetic flaws such as surface cracks and less than perfect patching jobs.

3) It’s easy to change when you’re sick of it. Repainting a room that has paint on the walls is a whole lot easier and much less time consuming than stripping wallpaper off walls and preparing those walls for paint.

4) It adds your own personal look and style to a space. Color and texture are fun and interesting. An entire home painted the same off-white color is dull and boring to me. A faux painting technique can evoke any mood you want in a room whether it’s a Tuscan look, retro 70’s look, a country look, something elegant, a cheery bright look for a child’s room, or any other look you want.

5) The choices of techniques and paints are nearly endless. Some of the more popular technique choices include: sponging, ragging, dragging, color washing, stenciling, crackling (http://www.decorativepaintingzone.com/faux/cracklingfauxpainting), marbling, gilding, wood-graining, spattering, feather-dusting, and stippling. You could also use one of the specialty paint products on the market today such as Venetian plaster to create the look you want or buy a faux painting kit such as a Woolie painting kit to help make your project as fun and easy as possible.

While I highly recommend faux or decorative painting, there are a few things I’ve learned since I’ve started faux painting that I’d like to share with you. Some of these items are things to “not do” that I’ve learned the hard way. Others are tips and suggestions that were helpful to me.

1) Go to your local paint store or decorative painting store and look at the samples they have. For example, Home Depot has lots of different booklets and paint chips with faux paint finishes on them for you to look at and even take home to look at in your lighting. That pretty metallic finish on a paint chip in the store make look garish when you get it home and look at it in your home’s natural lighting.

2) Consider taking a class before doing your first project. Some paint stores and home improvement stores, such as Home Depot, offer free faux painting clinics and workshops. You can also find some very good faux painting classes for a reasonable fee by looking in your local paper or doing an Internet search.

3) Practice your technique on a piece of scrap wallboard before doing it on your wall. This is especially important if you are blending colors. A few years ago my son wanted his bedroom painted. He wanted me to use a Woolie (a great faux painting tool available at most paint supply stores) to blend together a burgundy and a caramel color. Each color looked great by itself, but when they got blended together too much a dark fuchsia color emerged. And anything resembling pink was not something my son wanted on his wall!

Because I had been faux painting for years I didn’t listen to my own advice about trying the technique on a piece of scrap board first nor did I buy sample sizes of paint to try out. I bought gallons because I wanted to save time. Luckily the store agreed to exchange the paint for me free of charge but we did have to paint over a wall and wait for it to dry before starting over with new colors.

4) Remember that the texture of your walls will dictate, to some extent, what faux painting techniques you can and cannot use. If your walls are smooth you can do just about any technique you want. But textured walls are very common, especially in newer homes. You may see striped walls in a brochure or on a sample wall and decide that’s what you want to do in your home; but if your walls are textured it’s going to be nearly impossible to achieve straight lines for your stripes. Keep in mind that faux finishes on paint chips from a store are done on a smooth surface. They will look a little different (but may still look very nice) if you do that same technique with the same colors on a textured wall.

5) If you’re going to do a faux technique in an entire room don’t start on the wall that people will first look at when they walk into the room. That means don’t start on the wall directly across from the doorway. Unless you’re a professional, it takes a little while for you to get your technique perfected in a room. Put that less than perfect start in the least noticeable part of the room.

6) If you get tired while painting and need a break, don’t stop in the middle of a wall. Stop at a corner. If you stop in the middle of the wall and don’t come back to work on the project again until after the paint is dry, you’re going to have a noticeable line on the wall. It won’t be pretty.

7) Think twice about mixing your own color with paint you have at home unless you are absolutely positive you’re going to have enough paint to do the entire job. If you mix your own color and run out of paint before you finish it will be time-consuming and challenging to match that color. You might be able to match it because many paint stores have specialty machines that can match a paint chip you take in, but if you’ve mixed together two different sheens of paint (for example let’s say you mixed a flat paint and a satin paint together) you’re going to have a hard time reproducing that same sheen. In some cases it may not be noticeable; but in other cases it will.

If you’re a beginner, start with an easy paint technique. Sponging is very easy and looks great. Another favorite of mine is the Woolie I mentioned earlier. There are a couple of different types. I like the Woolie roller best. It’s really easy to use and the results are fantastic. It comes with a short video. Watch it before you start painting. If you’re not going to watch the video before you buy your paint, there’s one important thing to remember. Buy paint colors that are at least two places away from each other on a paint strip. For example, if you pick out a paint strip with 5 yellows on it, don’t buy two colors that are right next to each other because they will be so close in color that you won’t see much variation when you put those colors on the wall and start to blend them.

About Author:
Dorrie Ruplinger is a featured writer for http://www.decorativepaintingzone.com. Visit the web site for more information on decorative painting and faux painting
Article Source: http://www.isnare.com

WallDreams brings you information you can use - when doing it yourself is the only way to go!

Friday, March 21, 2008

Italian Lime Plaster Decorative Wall Finishes Add Old World Charm

The use of Italian decorative plaster has become an increasingly popular decorating technique in homes across America. It's a versatile medium that can be used in a number of ways to create dramatic wall and ceiling effects, and its use has been growing in recent years around the country.

Italian decorative plaster generally consists of a thin veneer of slaked lime putty, which is then mixed with quartz, marble, or kaolin and colored with pigment. It's then applied in a variety of ways to produce room treatments that resemble those that used to be found almost exclusively in northern Italy for nearly a thousand years.

However, even though it has been commonly used in northern Italy for millennia, lime plaster is among the world's oldest building materials. In fact, there is evidence to show that its use may date back as far as 9,500 years in the area that is now known as Jordan. Over the centuries, the Romans began to mix lime plaster with marble dust as a fine application over a coarser type of lime and sand aggregate, similar to the technique used in modern decorating techniques. Its use has been nearly continuous around the world from that time on, especially in Italy and other parts of Europe.

One of the most common phrases used when referring to Italian decorative plasters is the term Venetian, although it's also used to refer to nearly all types and techniques of decorative plaster work by many decorators. In America, Venetian plaster refers to both pure slaked lime and lime plaster that has been modified with acrylic polymers. The latter type of plaster is quite durable, but a number of Venetian plasters that are sold in the large home improvement centers bear little resemblance to true Italian plaster. Some of those products may contain no marble or lime, which means they aren't really plasters at all. In fact, there are no American companies that make true Italian decorative plaster.

Regardless of the type of Italian decorative plaster you choose, it can be used to create some strikingly beautiful and dramatic effects when done correctly. Go online or visit your local decorative paint center and talk to a knowledgeable person about how to work with plaster and where it can be used to its fullest effect, and then you'll be ready to begin incorporating some of the elegant beauty and old world charm that this ancient technique can add to your home.

About Author:
See slides of Italian plaster finishes at http://DecorativePaintFinish.com
Copyright © 2008 Jeanette Fisher

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jeanette_Joy_Fisher

WallDreams brings you information you can use - when doing it yourself is the only way to go!

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Crackle Finishing: Adds More Depth To Your Paint

With the current trend of home decor being shabby-chic, its no wonder everyone loves the look of crackle finishes. Crackle finishes can change not only the look and feel of everything from flower pots, to picture frames, to various pieces of furniture, but they can also change the dynamics of the walls of a room by creating the illusion of depth.

Crackle finish is a faux painting technique, which is used to give walls or pieces of furniture an aged, peeling-paint look. This technique is easy to do and can be accomplished by most beginners. The entire project can be completed in about four easy steps. Whether you are a professional or a beginner to the world of painting, you can master the art of crackle finishing.

The numbers of materials needed for this type of project are very few. The only limit to this project is your imagination. This is a fun; creative, and inexpensive way to way to spruce up your home. Think of all of the items that are found in your home; you know that there are things that would look awesome with a bit of the aged painting look.

When you are ready to begin applying the crackle finish to your furniture or walls, you will want to make sure that you have the appropriate tools and materials to make your project flow a little easier. There are not a lot of materials needed. Basically, what you will need includes:

* Latex wall paints (preferably satin finish one base coat, one top coat)
* Crackle finish or white glue (available at craft stores)
* Paint brush, roller
* Masking tape

Step 1 - Using your roller, apply one layer of base coat to your walls. Allow paint to dry at least 8 hours or overnight if possible. Choose a color that is visually appealing as this is the color that will show through the "cracked" topcoat. It is recommended that you choose paint colors that contrast well.

Step 2 - Use the masking tape to declare "off limits" areas where you do not want the crackle finish. Working one section at a time, apply the crackle finish to the walls. The finish resembles clear glue with a paint-like consistency. Allow to dry - generally 30 minutes to 1 hour - or as the manufacturer recommends.

Step 3 - Once dry, immediately apply the topcoat, starting in one corner of the room and working quickly. Be sure to load the brush with enough paint to cover each section in one motion. The crackling will begin immediately so be sure to avoid applying too much paint and over-blending which will erase the cracks. Continue this way until the entire wall is finished and allow to dry.

Step 4 - Remove the masking tape, clean out your brushes, stand back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Of course, if you are running short on time, or you are not crafty, you can always let a professional take over the job. You can buy items that already have the crackle finish applied, from tables and chairs to cabinets and everything in between. Pieces with the crackle finish can really make a difference in the look of your current décor.

About Author:
Barry Goodknight -
Custom Cabinets Wall Units.
Article Source: http://www.isnare.com

Feature Video:
Crackle Faux Painting Technique



We make learning faux painting fun and easy to do!
www.fauxfun.com

WallDreams brings you information you can use - when doing it yourself is the only way to go!

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Preparing Rooms For Paint

While it is certainly not the most enjoyable part of the painting process, careful preparation can make your home painting project easier and less stressful. In fact, this is quite possibly the most important part of the job.

Improper or incomplete preparation is a recipe for disaster. Fail to prepare, and your project is doomed before it has even begun.

The steps I’ve listed below are general, all-purpose prep rules. They are standard steps for most jobs. Before and after preparation, reassess the space to see if something does not look fully prepared.

Things You’ll Need:
•Roll of plastic sheeting
•Painter’s Tape
•Primer (Water-based Primer is usually sufficient)
•Spackling Compound
•Putty Knife

Clear the Room

Clearing the room of all possible obstacles is the first step toward a quality paint job. A cluttered room will increase the stress, work, and difficulty of your painting project.Begin by clearing the walls any removable pieces. This includes outlet covers, light switch covers, curtain rods, pictures, etc… Label any outlet covers and light switches with masking tape so they can find their proper home again. Keep the mounting hardware together (a plastic sandwich bag works great), labeled, and in a safe place.

Remove everything that’s possible from the room’s interior as well. Furniture, fabrics, home décor. Furniture that cannot be removed for some reason should be moved into the center of the room and covered with plastic sheeting. You should not use cloth to cover the floor or any furniture, as paint will soak into the fabric and stain whatever is underneath.

Clean the Room

Clean the room thoroughly. Vacuum carpets. Sweep and mop floors. Wipe down baseboards and woodwork with a damp cloth. Clean those pesky cobwebs from the corners.

Once this stage of cleanup is completed, cover the floor completely with plastic sheeting. Secure the sheeting to the edges of the floor or baseboard with painter’s tape.

Wash the Walls

Walls (even those that look clean) accumulate dust, oily buildup, soot (from candles, cigarettes, etc…). Washing the walls to be painted is a critical step in the preparation process. Paint will not adhere well to dirty, oily walls.

There are many cleaning products available on the market for this type of application, but I’ve found that plain old dish soap and warm water works just about as well as any of them. A sponge-headed mop is an excellent tool for actual cleaning. Its long handle should allow you to reach 8 or 9 foot tall walls with relative ease.

Once the walls have gotten a thorough washing, give them a final once-over with plain old water to wash any soapy residue from the surface.

Patch Holes

A smooth surface is critical to the finished look of your paint project. Fill any nail holes, small dents, and nicks in the drywall with spackling compound.

Press the spackle firmly into the hole with a putty knife and smooth as flat as possible. Allow several hours to dry (per spackling manufacturer’s instructions). Sand the repairs flush with the wall. Apply a second coat of spackling if necessary. Sand flush.

Spackling is meant only for minor drywall repairs, such as nail holes, hairline cracks, and small nicks. I urge you to contact a professional contractor/drywaller for any larger repairs, unless you are confident in your ability to handle it yourself. Drywall finishing is something of an art form (in my book at least) and I have encountered far too many botched do-it-yourself jobs to prescribe the “fix-it-yourself” method.

Priming

Once you have patched your walls, priming is the next step in preparing them for paint. Primer bonds to your current surface and gives you a perfect base to paint on. Primer may be unnecessary if you are using Latex Paint to paint over a previous low-gloss latex paint.

Even if your surfaces are already painted with a low-gloss, latex paint and do not require priming, you should apply primer to any areas that are patched with spackling. These areas will appear glossy even after painting if they are not spot-primed.

Taping

Taping is another necessary evil of preparing for paint. Taping off baseboards, woodwork, light switches, outlets, ceilings, adjoining walls, etc, is the best way to protect those surfaces you do not intend to paint.

Use only “painter’s tape”. It is blue and available at nearly any paint, home improvement, or hardware store. Any other tape may damage your surfaces when you attempt to remove it. Painter’s Tape is low tack and can usually be removed without incident within two weeks of application.

Taping can be very painstaking work. Apply it so the edge is flush against the surface to be painted, then press down along that border with a putty knife to seal the adhesive. This will help keep paint from seeping behind your tape.

Once you have finished taping off all areas, you are ready to begin painting. Take a deep breath. The hardest part is already done.

About Author:
Adam Smith is a professional painter and faux finisher. He also maintains a "how-to" website providing information on interior painting and faux finishing for do-it-yourselfers. You can visit it at
http://www.how-to-faux-finish.com/

Video Painting Tips:


Bob Schmidt gives advice about painting products and procedures to make your painting project go more smoothly


WallDreams Paint Ideas!

I like to spray prime the outlet covers and paint them separately in the faux finish being rendered unless the original color works well with the home interior. When doing a mural, sometimes I include the wall plate into the design as well.

My preferrence is to keep the work area clean during the entire process by keeping a trash bag/can nearby and picking up shrapnel as I go. It's safer, cleaner and less work to do when finishing up.

Pull tape as you go whenever possible! It's far easier to retape an area and you get a cleaner pull on the tape than if you let the paint dry on it. You can easily pull your paint finish right off the wall making for many touch ups later. While the paint is still wet any bleeding can be easily corrected.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Faux Finish Walls With Ragging

Adding a faux finish can add drama and interest to any wall in any room, and ragging is a technique you can easily use to transform the look of a room. Ragging lends a textured effect to a wall while still allowing your chosen background color to show through. Here are some simple steps for you to add faux glamour to your walls.

Colors

First you'll want to choose your colors. There are no hard-and-fast rules here. You can choose colors that are relatively close on the color wheel or you can choose any combination of colors that you think will be pleasing to you and will create the effect you're hoping to achieve. The more radical the color difference, the more bold your ragging statement will be.
Once you've finishing painting your wall with your base coat, let it dry completely. This will generally take about twenty-four hours, but once it's dry, you're ready to begin ragging the top coat.

Ragging

Wearing a pair of rubber gloves to keep your hands from getting coated, start by dipping your lint-free rag into your top coat, which will be composed of a four-to-one mixture of glaze and the color of your choice. As you work, don't forget to stir the glaze/paint mixture occasionally, because it will have a tendency to separate as time goes by.

Squeeze out the excess paint and then open your rag completely to evenly distribute the mixture before loosely crumpling it again. Start at the top corner of the wall and press your rag down gently. Work in an area of about one square yard before moving on. As you move along, uncrumple your rag from time to time to vary the pattern. Remember, this is a unique work of art you're creating. You don't want it to look like wallpaper.

After you've recrumpled the rag several times, repeat the process of dipping, opening and recrumpling your rag, and dabbing paint onto the wall until you've finished the entire surface. If you're doing several walls, you'll get the best results if you work on opposite walls first. Take a few steps back from time to time to check the uniformity of your ragging texture.

For a crisper texture, you can use a polyester rag instead of a cotton one. Plastic grocery bags also give a rougher texture. Regardless of which type of rag you choose, the key to a great-looking wall is to take your time and strive to achieve a random, yet uniform texture across the entire surface. It's not an expensive remodeling technique and it will take time to do, but with patience, you can dramatically change the look of a room by giving it a unique texture--one that you can proudly tell your guests you created yourself!

For professional decorative wall finishes, take a look at the
Faux Artists who worked on the Habitat for Humanity project on http://flipthathousewithfaux.com/

Copyright © 2007
Jeanette Fisher
Article Source:
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jeanette_Joy_Fisher

Video:
How to Faux Paint : Beginner Faux Painting Workshop Online : How to Use Rags for Faux Painting : Faux Painting Tips and Techniques



Learn how to use rags for faux painting, in this free video.

WallDreams Paint Ideas! Some cool tools for ragging are different textures in the cloth being dabbled or rolled on or off the surface. Again, its always better to practice your technique on a practice board before committing to the entire room. Likewise, try bubblewrap, terrycloth, sheets, plastic sheeting, burlap, cheesecloth, torn up t-shirts, a specialty rag rolling roller cover from a paint store, etc. Once you've put glaze to wall and begun a technique, stay on target. You can not change tool or stop mid-wall or the finish will be different. And as for any technique, do pull back occasionally and check for quality assurance, consistency.

Monday, March 17, 2008

Paint Finishes Made All the More Spectacular by Dragging

An ordinary-looking wall can be easily transformed into something more chic and up-market with just the stroke of a brush ... and you wouldn't believe it, a comb. Commonly known as dragging, this technique can make a room seem immediately larger and less boxy. And it is one of the rare painting techniques that can in fact work extremely well when you get just the right color combinations in, to either contrast or blend in with the shades. This article will offer tips on how to use a comb and a brush to create utterly spectacular paint finishes that only dragging can effect.

If you want a tougher and finer finish, a base paint that is primarily a flat mid-sheen oil-based paint would help you achieve that remarkably well as it is non-absorbent, therefore the colored glaze would slide on easily, and won't sink in. Apply the glaze using a white brush 100 or 125mm [4 or 5inch] in width and generously bristled. Dragging on the other hand only needs a cheap standard brush 100mm [4inches] in width. However, use white spirit [mineral spirits] for thinning the glaze. Glycerin, from a chemist or druggist, may help to keep an emulsion wash malleable for a longer period.

Dragging works best with two people, one applying the glaze or wash, and the other one dragging it off; and while doing this the state of mind you should aim for is attentive but relaxed. Bristles should touch the wall firmly but lightly. Use rags to wipe dragging brush every couple of strokes or so to prevent it from becoming loaded with glaze ... you don't want to put color on instead of dragging it off! Allow transparent oil glaze a day or two to dry. Thinned paint dries faster although it doesn't produce quite the same crisp finish as transparent oil glaze. But it's easier to handle. Complete dragged wall with coat of clear matt or colorless acrylic varnish as a protection against wear and tear or washing down.

A comb is another tool that can create a magnificent dragging effect on a wall with relative ease. You can actually make your own comb by simply cutting a plastic lid in half, and then cutting V-shaped notches about ¼-inch long into the straight edge of a cut lid. Depending on the look you want to create, spacing between notches can be even or uneven, but to avoid excess paint buildup between notches, make teeth fairly narrow.

In both techniques, you work your way down the wall with brush (or the comb) from top to bottom... and some professionals even add side to side, then top to bottom again over the same strip. I'd say experiment with different ideas when applying these two techniques -- you never know what you will discover. Have fun with it!

Dragging is a faux-painting technique that produces thin, vertical stripes on the wall. It works best on wood paneling or a smooth wall surface. A dry brush or a comb can be used to create this look of luxury, but it does work best with two people, one applying the glaze or wash, and the other one dragging it off. So the next time you want to spruce up your walls with special paint finishes, consider dragging.

About Author:
Anthony J. Namata is a successful Internet Marketer and author of
How to Become An International Gemstone Dealer and his popular online journal Diary Of An Internet Marketer
Shop for your favorite products and name brands AND help the world become a better place...Find out more at:
http://www.maxmalls.com/
Article Source:
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anthony_J._Namata

WallDreams Paint Ideas! Dragging has several aliases including strie, combing, and sometimes basketweave, stripping and wood graining. Also included are many of the "fabric" techniques like linen, denim, grasscloth, burlap, and canvas.

Dragging can be combined with other techniques to create interesting feature points in a room. Try alternating vertical stripes with a glaze combed through some of the stripes. Or harlequin diamonds with alternating diamonds having a glaze dragged within.

A great tool to use for dragging are wallpaper brushes because they are 12 inches wide and window squeegees too! Another option is a surfacing broom.

To keep the lines from going off-kilter, tape off plumb lines about 36 to 42 inch sections around the room and work every other section pulling off the tape as you go. Let the sections dry then go back and fill in the unpainted sections.

Til next time, keep those brushes clean!

Donna of WallDreams

Sunday, March 16, 2008

Faux Painting: Choosing Your Faux Finish

Faux Painting is the fastest growing form of decorative painting there is. If you are reading this article, you’ve probably been searching the web to find the most affordable and easiest way to “do it yourself”. There are a lot of different faux finishing techniques besides the well known sponging or ragging, but before you decide to start any project or buy any faux painting tools, there are a few important things that should be thought out clearly before you start faux painting in order to avoid major complications or problems that might delay or completely derail a work in progress. I have been a professional faux painter for 10 years now and after literally faux finishing hundreds of walls, I think I can save you saying “oh no!” a few times.

Before you choose what faux finishing technique you want to faux paint your wall with, ask yourself the following questions:

1) Is the finish going to look too busy or patchy overall? Remember that when you are looking at a small sample, it is different than looking at it over large areas. That’s why you should always practice on a large poster board first. You might want to paint a couple of boards and place them on the wall and then stand back to get the full effect before you proceed to faux paint the wall. Make sure if you are going with a patterned type of faux finish that it does not clash with the decor in your room. Sometimes it’s best to go with a simple color washing faux finish that incorporates all the main colors in the room and blends nicely in the background.

2) How high are your ceilings? If the technique you are going to use requires using a roller or brushing on more than one color, you should use a scaffold instead of dangerously carrying up multiple trays up a ladder. However, if you can’t fit a scaffold in the area, then you will have no choice, therefore get your climbing shoes on because you will go up and down that ladder a lot of times.

3) If the method you are going to use requires using 2 persons, make sure that both of you will be able to fit in the working area, especially if you have to fit a ladder in there, too.

4) In choosing your faux finish and the faux painting tools you are going to use, keep in mind that in small sections or tight areas, the tools might not fit. Therefore, it’s best to keep those patterned faux finishes to walls that don’t have too many fixtures on them.

You don’t want to spend a lot of money on faux painting tools and precious time learning a faux finishing technique, only to find out that you will not be able to achieve the finish on your walls due to insufficiently taking time to consider these important questions first. Through the years, I have eliminated offering certain faux finishes to clients depending upon these critical factors. I hope and pray that this article has made you think about some key questions that can save you a ton of heartache and frustration in planning your first or next faux painting project.

Because I understand how difficult it is to properly execute the necessary steps that certain faux painting methods or systems use, I have through the grace of God, developed a faux painting system that I believe addresses all the problems that one can encounter on most jobs. If you are interested, visit my website for more information.

About Author:
Sandy Silva is a professional Faux Painter and Muralist. Her company, Murals & Faux Painting, Inc. in the Miami area has been in business for 20 years and has been dedicated to the decorative wall painting profession for 10 years now. Buy her DVD workshop which comes with 5 tools....one being patent pending. The workshop includes tips like this one. Her web site is
http://www.muralsandfauxpainting.com/kit.html
Article Source:
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sandra_Silva


Video:


Before deciding what Faux Finish you want to paint your walls with, here's a video clip with some important things to remember. Order your DVD Faux Painting kit at
www.MuralsandFauxPainting.com

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Elegant Personality for Your Walls

Adding style and charm to an area as large as your walls isn’t always as easy as it sounds! There are so many options in painting, papering, faux finishes and paint treatments it can be hard to know what might be a good choice for your family. Right now a really hot technique is adding quotes, words or sayings to your walls that might be meaningful for those who live there, and it is very easy and inexpensive to do!

Adding meaningful words to your walls is inspirational, unique, and easy! You can do it yourself (which I am about to show you!) or you can order your words from online sources such as WallWords.com. (Tip: Online quote sources are a great place to get ideas for quotes and sayings as well.)

I like to place my quotes or sayings over a doorway or mantel, along a wallborder, or I use single words centered on doors or small, awkward wall sections. As soon as you have chosen your quotes or sayings, you are ready to get started!

Open a word processing program on your computer such as Word, and type in your saying. Experiment with starting each word with a capital, or all words lower case to see which looks best for your room. Now change and experiment with the fonts on your computer. If you highlight the entire passage first, every time you choose a new font, you will be able to preview how it looks. Keep in mind elaborate script looks better in a more formal or romantic setting. Choose a style that fits you and your room. Make sure you choose the font size to represent the size you would like on your walls. When you have chosen your font and size, print out the passage. Using a pair of scissors, cut apart each section of the quote as it will be painted onto the wall.

I like to use paint pens to draw the quotes onto the wall, but thick tipped permanent markers work as well, they come in many colors. Using scotch tape, tape the quote to the wall just above the area you will be drawing. Now use the computer printout as a guide, copy the words onto the wall with the paint pen. A strip of masking tape placed on the wall below the words will help keep you in a straight line. If you are not comfortable copying the letters, or if you have chosen a difficult font, place a piece of carbon behind the printout, and trace over the letters with a pen or pencil, leaving a pattern directly over the wall instead. Now go over the tracing with your paint pen.

This technique brings daily joy and inspiration to those who frequent your home, and is a meaningful way to express yourself in just an afternoon! Feel free to borrow a couple of my favorite quotes or words below, or try these sites for inspiration…

http://www.wallwords.com
http://www.quotationspage.com/
http://www.heartsandminds.org/quotes/quotes.htm

Or borrow some of my favorites… “I Can Do All Things…” –Philippians 4:13
“Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path, and leave a trail.” –Emerson
Live, Love, Laugh
Believe
Dream

Find your own, and give your loved ones a gift of inspiration every time they walk in a room!

About Author:
Kathy Wilson is an author, columnist, and editor of several popular home and garden websites. For hundreds of free do it yourself home and garden ideas, please visit her websites now at http://www.TheBudgetDecorator.com and
http://www.TheGardenGlove.com Also visit her work at home site at http://www.Women-on-the-Net.com
Article Source:
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kathleen_Wilson

WallDreams Paint Ideas!

Quotes I have used for my clients have included Scriptures (one as you are in the foyer looking into the dining area), great quotes over the front door, a reminder for a great lady when she woke up first thing in the morning of "I Believe", as well as simply block letters for children's rooms.

"As for me and my house, we will serve the Lord" - Joshua 24:15
"I Believe"
"Live Well, Laugh Often, Love Much"
"We're off to see the Wizard"
"Lions and Tigers and Bears, oh my!)
"Eat, Drink and Be Merry" OR "Eat, Drink and Be Healthy", "Eat, Drink and Be Gorgeous"

Think of where your favorite quote will work best. Is it a quote just for you or something you want to share with visitors to your home? Is it just for fun? What room or space will it be best viewed from?

Have frequent guests and they need help with directions to the Loo? (This one will bring out the water works of inspiration.)
Movie quotes are great too for media rooms.

Whimsy in decorating is fun - don't take everything too seriously, a simple word or line on a wall in our homes can bring a smile to our faces just when we need it.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Faux Paint Glossary by WallDreams

Faux Paint Glossary by WallDreams
Comprehensive alphabetical list of technical terms used in the faux painting field, whether in the business or learning a technique to try at home. I will add more definitions as time goes on or expand upon certain terms as need be.

Acrylic Paint – water-based paint available in bottles, tubes, and jars with excellent performance; dries quickly, durable color, resistant to sunlight, dries to a matte finish and is flexible. Works very well to paint murals, for tinting base coats and for faux paint finishes.

Antiquing – a paint technique to suggest age, worn edges, wear and tear by the use of distressing the surface and/or color treatment, and/or by using a medium

Bagging – a paint technique where plastic bags are crinkled up and manipulated through glaze over a base coat.

Base Coat – when preparing a surface, this first coat of paint covers the surface and hides any imperfections, and may or may not show in the final paint project.

Basket Weave – a crosshatched pattern of paint in two directions, dragging a combing tool through a base coat to form a pattern similar to a basket.

Bellagio Faux – a textured paint product by Behr Paints, applied with a specific brush and trowel resulting in a soft wash resembling an old world European finish.

Borders – any technique that goes around the edges of the room to add interest, design, and softness. A border can be stenciled, a repeated pattern, hand painted, taped off with lines of color, etc.

Boxing – when using more than one container of the exact same paint color, it is a good idea to blend them together back and forth into one bucket to blend them in case of a mismatch in color mixing.

Burnish – to polish a surface to make it glass-like smooth and shiny; for Venetian Plasters, to hand trowel the finish using a stainless steel spatula.

Clear Coating – usually the final coat of a paint project, it is transparent, protective and possibly decorative.

Cloud Effects – painting the look of sky and clouds.

Color Meshing – a paint technique using “woolies”, lambs wool or sheepskin double rollers to blend several colors directly on the paint surface.

Color Rubbing – generally a cloth used to rub some color off of another similar color.

Color Streaking – also called strié, results in dragging any of a number of types of tools through a wet glaze in a regular pattern.

Color Wash – a technique in which a semitransparent glaze is applied to a surface to create a pattern over a basecoat beneath it.

Color Wheel – a circular artists tool showing the color spectrum, arranged in a blended sequence of primary colors (red, blue and yellow) are filled in with secondary colors (made by mixing the two closest primary colors and then intermediate/tertiary colors. It is used for color identification, mixing, selecting and understanding their relationships.

Colorant – a dye or pigment, combination or code, to add to a paint to make specific colors

Combing – a paint technique where a variety of tools can be used to drag wet paint creating lines in any direction.

Cool Colors – are associated with water, ice, snow, sky and foliage and have a calm and restful feeling effect. They have a blue undertone to them, blue-green, blue, blue-purple, purple, red-purple, teal and some of the greens. Their tendency is to recede in space.

Crackle Finish - a paint technique that gives the look of aged paint with cracks intentionally created on the surface.

Crosshatch – a paint technique whereby either the brush is “X’d” across the surface or a toothed comb tool is both vertically and horizontally dragged through the wet paint to achieve a basket weave look.

Curing – paint needs time to dry thoroughly, therefore allowing for a full bond with its surface.

Cutting In – using a brush to create a good clean finished line against a surface.

Decorative Painting – beyond simply applying a solid paint color to a wall or surface, decorative painting is taking paint to another level. More an art when done well, interior faux paint techniques, treatments and murals enhance the spaces and add a richness, depth, character and make a statement.

Distressing - giving the appearance of age and wear, by paint and/or manipulation.

Dragging – a paint technique in which a brush, comb or other tool is pulled through wet glaze or paint that results in fine lines or small stripes.

Drift Pattern – when executing a faux marble paint technique, it is the diagonal pattern of light and dark colors in the stone.

Dry Brushing – a paint technique in which the brush has a minute amount of paint on it, most of it having been wiped off, then applied across a surface to add highlights.

Earth Tone Colors – the nature earthy tones found in dirt, rock, moss and trees. Browns, umbers, tans, grays, greens, blues and some reds. Think terracotta and brick tones.

Eggshell Paint – paint with very low sheen.

Elements of Design – Color, Line, Shape (form, volume, mass), Space (time, movement), Texture, Value.

Extender – any ingredient added to a paint that: improves coating performance, increases coverage, alters appearance, benefits durability, improves open time, or influences any other desirable traits in painting.

Fan Deck – each paint manufacturer has their complete paint system categorized, named and numbered on each chip, with colors organized from lightest to darkest and usually includes a sheen guide.

Faux – a French term meaning "false" or "fake". Pronounced “fo”

Faux Painting – describes a wide range of decorative painting techniques that not only include stone, marble, wood, brick, slate, and metal but other materials such as linen, leather, burlap and denim. By using paint and applying it to a surface, the artist can create the illusion of other materials, wallpaper and/or texture. Faux techniques generally fall into three categories: positive, negative and dual

Flat Paint – paint with no luster at all to it when dry, hides flaws, does not clean as well as paints with more sheen, does not reflect light.

Flogging – a paint technique using a brush with very long flexible horsehair bristles to simulates the look of wood grain.

Focal Point – an emphasized wall or feature in a room that draws the eye because of the interest and appeal it delivers in a well-designed area.

Fresco – a paint technique coming from the Italian “affresco” meaning fresh, the technique can be done on wet plaster “Buon fresco” or on dried plaster “a secco”.

Frottage – a paint technique with a base coat applied first, then a glaze is rolled over it. While the glaze is still wet, a piece of newspaper or plastic is placed onto the wet paint and rubbed onto it, then pulled away, creating a textured look. The look is best achieved with a light base coat and a deeper color top coat. Depending on the colors used, the newsprint may leave some reside behind which may or may not be desired.

Garland – a painted swag or border of leaves, flowers, fruits, berries, etc.

Gilding – an application of metal to a surface. Metals used can be gold leaf, silver leaf, or other metal leaf, metallic foil, metallic powder, or metallic paint.

Glaze – a colorless transparent paint that is formulated to dry slower than regular paint.

Glazing – a paint technique in which a semi-transparent film of color is applied to a base coat.

Glazing Liquid – can be oil or water based transparent liquid that can be added to paint for extended dry time, faux techniques, thinning the original color.

Gloss Paint – high sheen paint that shows any wall imperfections, very reflective of the light.

Gold Leaf – real gold beaten to an extremely thin sheets or “leaf” and used in the expensive process of gilding a surface.

Graining – a paint or glaze technique to make a surface look like wood

Grass Cloth – a dragging paint technique in which the combing tool is dragged horizontally and vertically through wet glaze over a dried base coat.

Hand Painting – a rendition of paint with paint brushes, free-hand painting.

Harlequin Diamonds – an elongated diamond pattern with any number of color options, size pattern and additions that they can be rendered in.

High Gloss Paint – a very durable, very reflective or high sheen paint. Any flaws in the paint surface will show.

Highlighting – is the point at which an object receives the most light and dry brushing over a textured surface’s raised areas thus making it appear that light is being reflected.

Holidays – an oops in a paint coat, missed spots or areas on a painted surface.

Hue – the name of a color or shade according to its dominant brightness, lightness or saturation; red, blue or yellow.

Inlay – the placement of a material/artwork/decorative element into the surface of another

Iridescent – a lustrous paint or glaze; also a medium with a shimmering effect.

Lacquer – a paint coating resulting in a hard, durable, glossy finish.

Latex Paint – a water-based paint or coating; it is quick-drying, easy to apply, clean up, and has a variety of sheens when dry.

Leathering – a paint technique giving the appearance of leather. It is advised to do a wall in sections for a more realistic approach.

Lime Wash – a paint technique used on stone, plaster or brick giving it the appearance of a whitewash. The wash is applied, left for a few minutes, then the excess is wiped away.

Linen Weaver – a paint technique using dragging or strié; a linen weaver brush has some bristles snipped out and is dragged through the wet glaze (applied with a roller) over a dried satin base coat. A wet edge is needed to continue down the wall vertically, and the tool should be wiped off occasionally.

Marbleizing – a paint technique used to create the illusion of marble, including a polished surface

Marbling – a technique with the mottled and veined appearance of real marble.

Matte – a surface or finish that is free from highlights or shine; dull.

Mediums – two meanings, the first being whatever the artist’s chosen method of artistic expression, the second is a liquid added and mixed into a paint to extend its workability.

Metallic Paint – an alternative to regular paints, usually more expensive, has a lustrous sheen and comes in many colors beyond the gold, silver, copper and bronzes.

Mileage – how much coverage to expect from a container of paint, square feet per container.

Milk Paint – a paint made from milk protein, clay, lime and earth pigments, it is non-toxic and fade resistant.

Moiré – a paint wave-like effect with the appearance of watered silk or wood grain patterns

Mosaic – the art of small pieces of glass, ceramic tile, stone or other objects embedded in mortar or plaster.

Motif – a reoccurring theme, image, element and subject matter in a pattern.

Mottled – to blotch or spot with different shades of color on a surface.

Murals – a decoration in any medium applied to a wall or ceiling or applied and attached to a wall. Included would be landscapes, seascapes, scenery, etc.

Nap – the length of the fibers on a roller cover, typically the thinnest naps are used to paint smoother surfaces while thicker naps are used on a rougher or more textured surfaces.

Neutral Colors – blacks, whites, grays, browns, beiges are all considered neutrals because they are neither warm nor cool colors. They blend or combine well with all colors to alter their value or intensity.

Oil Paint – composed of resins, oil paint must be thinned with solvent and equipment must be cleaned up with turpentine or thinner. Slower to dry.

Opaque – a substance that does not allow light to pass through it; not translucent or transparent.

Open Time – the interval of time when something is applied and when it becomes no longer workable.

Paint Sheen – refers to how much light is reflected in a paint finish when dry. Flat has no sheen, satin and eggshell have low sheen moving up to semi-gloss, gloss and high gloss having the most shine, especially when viewed from various angles.

Parchment – a paint technique that has the look of animal skin and paper originally used in letter writing. For a more realistic approach, sections can be painted in units no larger than one square yard.

Patching – in surface preparation, the repair of cracks, holes or other imperfections by using a compound like spackle.

Patina – the aura, luster or film that develops on a surface with age or use, such as on leather, or the greenish color that forms on copper or bronze after exposure to the elements.

Pearl Paint – a paint with mica powder, which when light hits the surface at various angles, it changes the color reflected.

Pickled Finish – a paint technique in which white or off-white paint is rubbed into wood.

Pigments – the organic or inorganic material sources of coloring mixed into paint bases.

Plaster – a textured surface coating product that can be rolled and/or troweled, then painted in a variety of techniques.

Polyurethane – an oil or water-based sealer.

Pouncing – to use the tool in an up and down motion, turning the wrist with each strike, usually to ensure a more random feel and to not create a pattern.

Primer – a surface preparation paint that seals a surface before the base coat of paint allowing a better bond between the layers.

Principles of Design – Balance (symmetrical, asymmetrical, radial), Contrast, Dominance (emphasis), Harmony, Proportion, Repetition (rhythm, pattern), Scale, Unity, Variety.

Ragging on/off – a paint technique that involves the manipulation of crumpled rags in wet glaze over a base coat. This technique will hide surface imperfections well.

Rag Roll – a paint technique similar to ragging, but the material used in the glaze is rolled up into a cylinder and very lightly rolled across the surface.

Runs – when too much paint is applied and starts flowing down the surface.

Sandwash – a premixed textured and tinted paint that has sand and bits of stone added to it.

Satin Paint – a paint finish with some light reflection, a slight sheen. Has some washability.

Saturation – also known as the “intensity” of a color, it refers to how dull or bright a color is.

Scumbling – a paint technique of applying a semi-opaque layer of paint over another dried layer of paint which results in the partial obscuring of the undercoat or “broken” effect.

Sealer – a transparent liquid applied to a surface to seal and protect it. A sealant can be a primer or a topcoat.

Semi-Gloss Paint – the sheen is very reflective of the light, holds up well to frequent washing, cleaning or damp areas. Commonly used in kitchens and bath areas.

Shade – adding black or a dark color to another color to reduce or darken it.

Shading – an area darkened to give the appearance of a shadow, in murals and Trompe L’oeil three dimensional effects.

Smooshing – similar to frottage, a paint technique of a glaze applied over a base coat with thin sheet of plastic pressed into the glaze then removed.

Spattering – also referred to splattering or fly-speckling, a paint technique in which watery paint is sprinkled onto a surface.

Sponging on/off – a paint technique using a natural sea sponge pouncing the color on or off the surface.

Spot Priming – application of a primer in small areas to cover small fixes or markings.

Stamps – any variety of designs or shapes usually made of rubber in which paint color(s) can be added to the stamp then pressed onto a surface, or lightly dipped into paint then applied.

Stain – a paint applied to wood that does not obscure the graining.

Stencils – usually a cut-out metal or plastic design placed on a surface and paint is pounced, brushed, or sponged into the cut-out areas.

Stipple – a paint technique leaving tiny dots of color over a base coat, the glaze is applied and while still wet, a brush is hit or pounced upon the surface.

Stone Block – a Trompe L’oeil effect if done well, giving the appearance of stacked stone, stone and mortar, or a brick wall.

Strié - French word for "stripes" or "streaks", dragging through the glaze to create soft lines of color. Used to create horizontal, vertical or diagonal stripes or plaid effects. Pronounced “stree-ay”. Tip: When creating specific fabric renditions, choose colors typically found in those fabrics or materials. Usually a lighter base works best with a darker glaze worked over it.

Stripes – creating horizontal or vertical lines of color. Though solid color stripes are fine, any faux technique can be used to create the paint color of alternating stripes as well as how wide each stripe is. It can be further enhanced with pinstripes, hand painting, stencils, a garland, etc. Tip: put a piece of tape on the stripe you are NOT painting and pull off the tape as soon as a stripe is finished to correct any bleed through.

Subtractive Technique – any paint effect that is the result of applying the paint to the surface then removing some using a variety of tools to create the desired textured effect.

Suede – a paint technique using a premixed, pre-tinted textured paint that when rendered properly, resembles the velvety, brushed look of suede.

Surface Preparation – a quality faux painting technique or mural will only succeed if the initial surface of the project is prepared to perfection. Surfaces must be cleaned and repaired if there are flaws. Patching, caulking, sanding, priming, stain blocking, proper cleaning, rinsing and dried, along with a base coat are part of getting to walls or room ready for the main paint technique.

Tacky – paint finish has not completely dried, sticky.

Temperature – refers to how warm or to how cool a color appears to be.

Texture – in faux painting, the point is to create a two dimensional feel to the surface as opposed to using a plain straight color. With a variety of colors or textures created, the finish can add depth, character, warmth, and a cozy feel to the room.

Texture Paint – paint that is thicker or has other additives, for instance sand, to produce a very textured surface.

Tint – adding white to a color.

Tissue Paper – also known as crinkle paper in which the paper used can be torn or crumpled and glazed directly to the wall then finished in a variety of techniques like a color washing antiquing glaze. Another option is to use brown paper bags.

Tone – adding black and white to a color.

Top Coat – the final paint, sealer, protective film, layer, or coat in a painting process.

Tortoiseshelling – a pattern technique similar to that of the shell of the hawksbill turtle, created by any combination of raw sienna, burnt sienna, burnt umber, crimson and black and topped with several coats of a protective film. The pattern involves many small splotches of color that have their edges softened. Tip: Best suited to smaller objects, if a wall or room trim is your desire, a good tip would be to cut the surface into small sections with seams showing.

Trompe L'oeil - a French term meaning to "trick the eye" referring to an art technique that is extremely realistic, with exact colors and shading creating an optical illusion of an object(s) to appear three dimensional. The look should be so realistic, that the viewer may have to reach out and try to touch it to see if it is real or not. Pronounced “tromp loy”

Value – the lightness (tint) or darkness (shade) of a hue. The amount of light reflected in that color.

Varnish – a transparent, hard, protective finish or film used on typically wood or a special effect.

Venetian Plaster – a surface coating product consisting of ground marble, sand and lime that can be tinted then applied with trowels or putty knives in at least a three part process. The layers are sanded in between and the final result is quite smooth, has depth and a subtle sheen. It is a technique that is good for covering surface imperfections or cracks.

Verdigris – when brass, copper or brass are exposed to the elements, over time a greenish-blue patina (rust) forms.

Warm Colors – the colors containing more yellow (think Sun, heat, fire, the feeling of warmth), red, orange, yellow (red-violets, yellow-greens); warm colors have the tendency to advance in visual space.

Wash – a diluted pigment applied across a surface.

Wet Edge – when applying paint to a work area, the amount of time the edges remain wet and still workable for blending before the paint begins to dry, making it less able to blend, flow and possibly mar the final finish.

Wood Graining – a paint technique that can be made using a wood grain tool that is rocked and dragged through a paint to create the look of wood grain. In French, “faux bois”.

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Walldreams Specialty Faux Painting and Murals of Woodbridge, Virginia can be found at http://www.walldreams.com and is serving the surrounding area by creating unique atmospheres to enhance your home or business. A fresh coat of paint with textured color applied in various applications will give your living and work spaces new life. From murals to rag rolling, color washing and sponging, have WallDreams create a room that can be called a work of art.